Repairing the 5V output from a Mastech HY3005D-3 (cheap import) power supply

The 5V fixed output on my Shenzhen Mastech HY3005D-3 power supply died the other day, and so I took the device apart to investigate. The 5V regulator board had a bad solder joint where the bridge rectifier attaches to the PCB. I used a soldering gun to reflow the joints, and all seems good.

Repairing a wireless keyboard

Last night, I sat down to use my home theater (a PC connected to a DLP projector) and had some problems typing in the name of a movie into Netflix. I thought I had mistyped the word, but I soon realized that my wireless keyboard had some non-functional keys on it. The letter 't', numbers 1 and 3 among other keys were not working. Since the failure affected more than one key, and pressing harder did not help the situation, I reasoned the problem was one of the matrix lines in the keyboard's circuit and not a bad connection in the button itself. The rest of the keys worked fine, so the microprocessor and transmitter were probably OK.

I took the keyboard apart and located the matrix lines between the microprocessor and the array of buttons. I used an oscilloscope to see which lines were pulsed (outgoing from the microprocessor) and which were switched (incoming to the microprocessor). I also compared the signals from the working "2" key to the broken "1" key. The signal was present but weak for "1". I tested the total circuit resistance for "1" and "2". "2" (working) was a couple hundred ohms, but "1" was 10k ohms. The circuit had a bad connection somewhere.
I used my meter to trace the bad connection to this spot on the flexible circuit board beneath the keys. It looks fine visually, but there is an electrical discontinuity right in the very center of this photo where the trace becomes narrow and passes above the middle rectangular cutout.

I used some conductive paint (marketed for repairing automotive defrost grids) to cover the bad area of the trace.

I was tempted to use conductive epoxy for the repair, but it can be very brittle and has low adhesion qualities. We'll see how the defroster repair product holds up.

Reparing a worn-out pivot hole in steel

These pictures show how I repaired a clutch pedal with a worn-out pivot hole.

The hole is oval-shaped, which causes the whole clutch linkage to feel very sloppy. Eventually, the clutch would not fully disengage even with the pedal pushed to the floor.

The first step was to bore out the hole to .500" with an end mill.


I cut a piece of 1/2" steel rod to fit the depth of the clutch pedal plate, and brazed it into the hole. I used a grinding wheel to make the edges flush.


Now it is easy to drill a new hole that is the proper diameter

The repair is invisible under a new coat of paint.


The completed pedal assembly is ready to be replaced in the car.